Duck Stones (GR 026030) is a good mainly easier grade bouldering venue. There are one or two more difficult problems to be found but the nature of the heavily weathered rock tends to lend itself to easier grades. It is situated on the skyline overlooking Dovestones Reservoir at a height of approx 1500' and is exposed to the prevailing weather. Some of the problems do suffer from seepage and can be sandy after rain. It is probably best left for a dry summer to enjoy at its best. Shady on the morning the crag catches the afternoon and evening sun.
Approach: from Dovestones Reservoir car park (pay and display - strictly policed) follow the track round the right hand side of the reservoir, past the sailing club hut until a bridge is reached. Duck Stones proper is the collection of tors and small crags on the skyline directly up the hillside across from the bridge, just to the right of the dry stone wall higher up the hill. To get there, take a deep breath and walk 50 yards up the tarmacked road on the other side of the bridge. Cut back left on the horizontal track between the 2 cloughs (streams) coming down the hillside, cross the small iron grille bridge. Just beyond this a path strikes directly up the hill, until it meets the dry stone wall which can be followed to the mid point of the boulders described. The first described problems are at Bramley's Cot, which can be reached by following the moor edge path left or north until it drops down to the ruined building nestled against the crag. Approx 30 minutes.
Access: See BMC Regional Access Database https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=2733
Bramley's Cot (GR026035) can be found half way between Duckstones proper and Dovestones Edge. It is easily recognised by the ruined building which nestles into the edge and from which it takes its name. The first problems described follow the roof line of the old building.
1. Bramleys left hand. Climb the left hand roof line. Easy.
2. Bramleys right hand. Climb the right hand roof line. 4.
3. Apple Arete . Climb the left hand arete. Easy.
4. Apple Bramley. Climb the centre of the wall using the flake, break and slopey pocket. 6a.
5. Right Stew. Climb the right hand wall. Easy.
Duckstones slab can be found approximately 100 yards south along the moor edge. It is best to contour along the jumble of rocks just below the main moor edge path in order not to miss it! When you do find it, you'll probably recognise it by its golden colour and a flake on the right side.
6. Slab arete left. Climb the left hand arete. Easy.
7. Smear. Use the crack to smear on to the wall and gain the break. 6a+.
8. Herring Pocket. Climb the slab past the pocket. 6a.
9. Flake. Climb the flake on theright side of the slab. 4.
10. Slab arete right . Climb the right hand arete. Easy.
11. Crimp. Climb the steep wall past an obvious crimp. 4+.
Duck Stones left As you approach the skyline by following the dry stone wall the first problems can be seen just to the left of the obvious long low wall.
12. Flakey Wall. Gently climb the flaky wall, past the symmetrical ears of rock. A tad friable. Easy.
13. Twin Quacks. Climb the obvious twin cracks, very pleasant indeed. Easy.
14. Easy Quackings. Climb the wall just right of the twin cracks. Easy.
15. Arete & Flake. Climb the arete and flake. Easy. 16. Ramp. Climb the ramp just right, trend left to finish. Easy.
17. Central Wall. The wall in between the ramp and thin crack, climbed on crimps, easier than it looks. 4.
18. Blind Crack. Blind thin crack. 4+.
19. Right Flake. Flake to crimps and the top. 4.
20. Quackers. The slab just right. Easy.
Duck Stones right (proper) Duck Stones right (proper) is approx 50 yards to the right of the dry stone wall followed on the approach. It is slight below the skyline. There are some good problems here, on good solid, extremely rough rock. A few are documented here, there is lots more easier stuff to discover.
21. Burning rubber. Climb the left hand arete with help from the wall. Scuttle off left to descend. 5+.
22. Do Humans believe in Dog? . Climb the vague rib via a nipple and a boss. An excellent problem. Descend left from the ledge. 6c.
23. Do animals believe in God? Climb the wide blind crack. Move right at the break to descend. 4.
24. Climb the right hand arete. Easy.
25. Gripfaster. Climb the excellent crack on the next buttress to the right (just left of The Jug). Move left to descend. 5.
Just below Duck Stones proper is a big easy angled slab, lots of easy eliminates could be climbed on this.
