The Pits are a series of small grit quarries etched into the hillside overlooking Diggle. They can be gloomy and dank on a bad day however on a good day the combination of sun on clean rock, vibrant grass and a blue sky make for a pleasant experience. The best problems are usually on clean rock but some of the less frequented problems on North facing walls may be abit dirty and in need of a light brushing. The quarries are finger jam heaven, or hell, whichever way you look at it with some excellent crimpy walls thrown in for good measure.
Approach: when driving along Uppermill High Street, turn off up Church Road, follow uphill until Uppermill is left behind. Continue following the road which will now be contouring the hillside, pass the Church inn and the Cross Keys pub on your left and onto where the road reaches its highest point, turning sharply left downhill. Park here taking care not to block any gates. The quarries can be found by following the track over the stile, follow the path in the high grassy walled defile until it broadens out. Cross the stile and the first quarry is to be found immediately down the path to the right. Approx 15 minutes.
Access - See BMC Regional Access Database https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=1004. Quarry 7 & 8 are not on CRoW land.
Quarry 1 contains the infamous Calamity Crack and is to be found just after you cross the first stile, immediately down the path to the right.
1. Nora Batty, a good problem. Finger jam the right hand crack to the arete, 6b. Descend the wall to the right.
2. Climb the blocky arete to the ledge, 4.
3. Traverse the wall left to right, along the finger flake, up to the break and finish at the crack, 6c.
4. Finger jam the crack below Calamity Crack, 4. Escape off right.
Quarry 2 can be reached in a few minutes by following the track straight on after crossing the stile.
1. Sagittarius Flake start, follow the flake line until it is possible to span out left to the block in the corner, 5+. Bridge down this to descend.
2. Scoop de Grace start, swing in off the flat stone to the left (not the large block), crimp, smear, edge and crimp up to the scoop, 7b+. Bail out here or continue to the top for the E5 tick.
3. Climb the dirty arete, better than it sounds, 4+.
4. Groove-V-Baby, bridge up the red groove, escape right at the top, 4+.
5. Unctuous, climb the short green wall, immediately on your right as you enter the quarry, 4.
Quarry 4
A few nice problems in an interesting and pleasant location. Follow the track on the right after passing Quarry 1.
1. Presence, start left of centre make a hard move then step right. Gird your loins and romp to the top, 6a+*
2. Yawnsville, Climb the green right arete, 5
3. Jamtastic, jam the diagonal crack, 5
4. Bakers Day, the thin crack, 5+
5. Diagonal Agony, the middle of thre wall to the obvious holds, 6b
6. For a few Daggers More, the arete starting in the hole, bale out right at the break, 6a+.**
Quarry 8 can be reached in a few minutes by following the track out the left side of Quarry 2. Follow the right side of the fence as you drop down the hill until you meet an obvious horizontal track contouring the hillside. Cross the fence at the obvious point to follow the track left, Quarry 8 is the second opening on your left. The problems on the main wall are a tad highball, bring a mat and a spotter!
1. Firefly, thin finger jams to an easier finish, 6a.
2. Duckdoo, climb the wide crack with help from the thinner ones to the right, 4+.
3. Fist Full of Daggers, jam the thin crack to the flake, continue with the crack until an escape rightwards can be made at the break, 6a+.
4. Deliver Us From Evil, climb the 2 cracks, first the left and then the right to finish,5+.
5. Black Watch, climb the rightwards trending crack past the block, 5.
The next problems are on the wall at the back of the quarry.
6. The Groove, climb the high groove, slightly highball and with a knobbly landing, 7b?
7. Chalkie, climb the arete on its left side, 5.
8. Tomintool, climb the rib and groove, less innocuous than it looks, 6.
